Mama Yuli: The trans women's leader no-one messes with

Mama Yuli is the leader and protector of Indonesia’s transgender women – or Waria, as they are known. Though revered on some of Indonesia’s thousands of islands, Waria are increasingly persecuted elsewhere, as a stricter type of Islam takes root. And this makes Mama Yuli’s job a lot harder.

The second time I met Mama Yuli she told me she had killed someone once. Knifed him.

I scanned the heavily made-up face

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