Mama Yuli is the leader and protector of Indonesia’s transgender women – or Waria, as they are known. Though revered on some of Indonesia’s thousands of islands, Waria are increasingly persecuted elsewhere, as a stricter type of Islam takes root. And this makes Mama Yuli’s job a lot harder.
The second time I met Mama Yuli she told me she had killed someone once. Knifed him.
I scanned the heavily made-up face